For better or for worse, but certainly for more expensive, the Essex Street Market on the Lower East Side has undergone some significant changes. Cilantro and jalapenos are replaced by artisanal cheeses and chocolates. As long as I can still a get buck bunch of cilantro that rivals my head in size, I’m okay with that. However, it’s also nice to see newcomers arrive that gently look to the past, not the future. Such a place is Boubouki, a homey little stall owned by Rona Economou. Photos of her family decorate the walls of the tiny space. Ms. Economou turns out fresh, flaky spanokopita, baklava, and feta flatbread, featured on a roster that continues to evolve and expand. Don’t overlook the unassuming Easter cookies, which taste like a cross between a butter cookie and the most insanely good crumb cake ever.
120 Essex Street