Friday, March 26, 2010

Food Behaving Excessively


The Guardian--and its entertaining roster of commenters--take on the excesses of presentation.
More excess: Ed Levine, of Serious Eats NY, reviews the oversized, verging on ridiculous, Pulino's, a pizzeria with a social pecking order, which guarantees I won't be visiting the joint.

The Kitsap Sun (I love saying that; sounds like ketchup), brings us food excesses of another kind.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

There goes the neighborhood. Again.

My friend EV Grieve gives us a perfect example of how one trendy restaurant can take an entire neighborhood down.

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

In the Bahn Mi Zon

Stopped into Bahn Mi Zon, a sunny little Vietnamese place last Saturday, that swoonily sunny day that would have made eating anything heavy seem heretical.  The space is small, but airy and welcoming; the walls are covered with photos of Vietnam and Cambodia that are both astonishing and charming.  Jazz tootles in the background.

We got an order of summer rolls, which we watched being made directly behind the counter.  This may seem like a small matter, but I have had far too many summer rolls that were tough of skin and tired of filling because they had been sitting in the fridge since seven in the morning.  These rolls were tender and fresh, packed with herbs and sparkling.  As a snack for two people for $4.50, they are hard to beat.  My only complaint was that the accompanying peanut sauce was mild enough for a PBJ.  A spoonful of hot sauce set that right, and I  contentedly ate on the bench outside, contemplating the promise of summer.

Ban Mi Zon
443 East 6th St (at Ave A)
646-524-6384

Friday, March 19, 2010

Oh, Bonomo!

Saw the word bonobo and, instead of thinking of peace-loving primates, I think of taffy, which is pretty much how my mind works most days.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

NPR Has Me Feeling Green (and not in a good way)


Before I d before I blow a gasket, memo to NPR's The Takeaway's (and I wish NPR would take it away) John Hockenberry: Guacamole isn't Irish; neither are the disgusting green milkshakes you are featuring on your website. It's all gross, unimaginative, and a more than a little bit insulting.

Friday, March 12, 2010

The Last Roast of Winter

Two days ago, during the  false spring, I made Caesar salad, now, in the cold and dank waning days of winter, I'm roasting a rather large slab of pig.  Not at all unhappy about  this, as I have a lot of work to catch up on, and I see days ahead of pseudo pulled pork, pork fried rice, bean, and other dishes requiring little time and energy from the cook.  But first I have to roast the pork, and I am running late.  Should take less than two hours to cook, but that doesn't count the time it takes to heat the oven and season the meat.  I really should have come straight home from Key Food, but that didn't happen.  If you're a freelancer, you know that sometimes the call of some  semblance of a social life overrides any other considerations.

Poke the pork, which is a 3 pound boneless center cut, all over with a sharp knife, then shove garlic slivers into the holes.  Rub all over with salt and pepper.  With a smaller piece of meat--or more than two eaters--I would use more intriguing spices, but I want the leftovers to be adaptable, not assertive.  Place in a roasting pan, fat side up, then into a 450 oven. Pour a half cup of red wine Samuel Smith's Organic Cherry Ale that just walked in the door with Bruce over the meat. 

Cut some russets in to eighths, then in half.  Toss with olive oil, salt, pepper, and rosemary.  After twenty minutes or so, douse the pork with more liquid (I've finished the ale, so it's time for red wine for me and the pig), and lower the heat to 325.  After 15 minutes more, put the potatoes in the oven.

Take deep breaths, then turn to the choux a la creme (creamed cabbage to you, mac). Shred half a green cabbage, toss in a wide pan with a couple of tablespoons of butter.  After 15 minutes or so, as it starts to soften, sprinkle with caraway seeds, salt and pepper, and begin feeding it heavy cream, maybe a quarter cup at a time.  Stir occasionally.

Keep dousing the pork (you will probably use a total cup and a half or so of liquid).  Flip the potatoes as they brown.  The cabbage will be done when little liquid remains an it looks elegantly suave with cream. (Depending on the depth of your love for cream, you might use could be one-half to one full cup.). The cabbage will likely be done first, with the meat and potatoes following not long thereafter. The meat is done when its internal temp reaches 150, about an hour and 45 minutes. Let meat rest for ten of fifteen minutes.  Check the potatoes for doneness.  Pour liquid from pork pan into a pot.  Cook down until glossy, adding a bit of thickener (I adore Wondra), if you'd like.  Slice, serve with gravy, and look forward to days of porky goodness.

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Food Day Roundup

New York is now a coffee hotbed, according to the NY Times.  Oh joy.  (I just don't get it; I have my two cups of Bustelo in the morning, and I'm good.)
Via the Guardian,  human breast milk cheese at a NYC restaurant. Ewww.
From our friends at Serious Eats New York, sushi pizza. That's not gonna fly in Bay Ridge.
And from one of my favorite papers, The Scotsman, a look at robofood.  Hey, at least robots don't lactate.

Tuesday, March 09, 2010

Go Away, Little Boy

It wasn't bad enough that we had to choke down the treacly account of Amanda Hesser's love life in  "Cooking for Mr. Latte," in the NYT magazine, now we have the micromanaged parenting of "Cooking with Dexter," featuring the culinary stylings of a five-year-old.  I skimmed Latte, I skip Dexter. Memo to Times: No one cares about other people's children.

Wednesday, March 03, 2010

Food Day Roundup


I'm really not getting Sam Sifton's style. In  following the slightly camp and very much out Frank Bruni as NYT restaurant critic, he seems a bit desperate to come off as hypermasculine. Not digging it thus far.
On the other hand, the NYT's Mark Bittman is my kind of guy. One of his latest recipes, for an improvisational Yakisoba, will be hitting my frying pan tonight.
The world's best pizzas sure as hell don't look like pizza to me. [NJ.com]
It seems to be rather a slow day for food news, and I'd rather be obsessively tracking the approach of the NHL's trade deadline, anyway. Here's a Boston Bruins commercial that comes pretty close to combining my two chief obsessions: food and drink, and hockey.  Funny, too.

Tuesday, March 02, 2010

Best Commercial Ever

Might be moderately unsafe for work, if you work in a stuffy joint.  Otherwise, enjoy!

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I'm a ninth-generation Brooklyn native living in Manhattan.